Crasher goes North: It's a riding day. Not a stopping to take photos day.

Map of Day 14

Tuesday 28th July 2015

After the wet and dismal weather we had yesterday, it was great to be waking up to a warm, sunny day. We were all a bit slower to get going this morning. I think it was partially due to yesterday being quite tiring. And, while I can't speak for the others, I especially was finally feeling calm and relaxed. Work and home life stresses were a million miles away. The scenery was stunning, and the people we had met were nothing but friendly.

We were on the road just before 9. The first stop for all of us was fuel. We didn't feel like stopping in the rain yesterday, so we were a little low. My fuel light came on after just a few kilometres, but we found a fuel station five minutes further on. Mark was complaining about the feel of his back brake. He bought some brake fluid so that he could flush it through later on this evening. My brakes also felt a little wooden this morning. I put it down to the amount of water we had ridden through yesterday. As a few kilometres of twisty roads soon brought the feel back.

Todays trip along the E6 started out with a series of long radius turn and tunnels, as it followed the shore along the Rana Fjord. It was so nice to feel the sun on my face again. The day was off to a great start.

It wasn't long before something came along to spoil things though. Tourist coaches. German tourist coaches. We were now riding along one of the busier, prettier, sections of the E6. Tourist coaches were everywhere. Just when you got past one and started to make progress, another would come into view. To be fair to them, they were keeping up a good pace. But, the nature of the road meant that we were swarming all over the back of them in no time.

But, Stuart who was leading the way this morning had a plan. We headed away from the main E6 onto a couple of the smaller "snow roads". These roads are the old network of roads which weave their way over the mountains whereas the E6 takes a more direct path. These roads are still maintained very well, due to the fact that they are used as diversion routes if the E6 becomes blocked for any reason. They are known as "snow roads", as there are closed off by barriers during the heavy snow in winter.

But, it is July. It is warm and sunny, and these roads are deserted. We were all nipping along at a brisk pace. Endless series of hairpin bends and corkscrew turns, up and down the mountains. Some of the views from the top were spectacular.

But, all too soon the snow roads led us back to the E6. Although this section was now a twisty, slightly narrower, and in some places freshly tarmacked  riders paradise.

The mountains were becoming more imposing again on either side of the road. I also spotted this truck dealer with a full sized concrete sculpture of a cab painted to look like the surrounding view.

We were having a great ride, until we spotted a familiar coach. It was the same one we were stuck behind an hour ago! While we had been playing the hare over the mountain roads, the coach tortoise had crept into the lead.

We stopped at Lakfossen to stretch our legs. This large powerful waterfall was popular with the tourist coaches. Our nemesis pulled up just as we had walked over to the viewing point, spilling it's  contents across the carpark.

There was a small footpath down to the falls. I climbed down to the waters edge to take some photos. Standing so close gave a real impression of the power in those falls. The roar of the water was deafening.

As we walked back to our bikes, a Norwegian couple on an interesting BMW K1600 rolled in. They had a funky little trailer in tow. There were lots of bikes towing similar trailers all over Scandinavia.

With the tourist coaches busy at the waterfalls, we decided to get ahead of them. We had the option to stay on the E6 or take an alternative route I had spotted last night while reviewing my maps. It involved taking some smaller roads out towards, and then following the coast. The first part of this route was the 76. We would then join the southern section of the FV17.

Route 76 was a magical mix of different types of riding and scenery. It had everything. Open, flowing alpine roads, tunnels, little farming villages, mountain hairpin switchbacks through pine forest, fast flowing rivers,  and deep clear fjords. If a mermaid had popped up to the surface of one of these deep shimmering pools I would not of been surprised.

However, it wasn't a mermaid I happened to spot. Instead it was a pair of angels. Young, tall, attractive, gun toting, Police uniform wearing angels. I had feelings of naughtiness coursing through my immature mind.

Cresting a short rise, a Police van was parked up at the side of the road. A few hundred metres further on, the two Norwegian lovelies were knelt at the roadside carrying out some kind of forensic examination. Their effect on me was almost instantaneous. As I ran extremely wide on the next bend, and nearly created some more work for them to do!

Another 30 or so kilometres circumnavigating a few more stunning fjords, and it was time to stop for lunch. Near Velfjord we found a service station.

I had a great quarter-pounder, an ice cream and of course a coffee. Mark decided he fancied the chicken nuggets. Well, he assumed they would be chicken. But, this being Norway, they turned out to be fish! He was not impressed. To ease the pain, Mark walked to the supermarket next door, and bought some beer to drown his sorrows latter that evening.

Shortly after lunch, I took the lead as we headed on to the FV17. After researching this during the trip planning stage it is supposed to be one of the most beautiful roads in this area of Norway. This is the route Finn had taken yesterday. I had dismissed riding the whole FV17 route due to the time it takes. But, somehow Finn had managed the whole route in just under 2 days! He had also managed to avoid the rain the rest of us had experienced, posting photos of himself with a large ice cream cone just to rub it in.

The southern part of the FV17 that we rode was nice, but I wouldn't call it stunning. It was no better than the roads we had ridden this morning. We followed the road across open farm pastures and then along the coast to a ferry crossing at Vennesund. There are a couple of cars waiting, but we ride straight to the front.

A few minutes later the ticket collector walks over for a chat. He says that the ferry is just arriving, and they will get us on first. We are waved on, park the bikes, and make our way up on deck for the twenty minute crossing.

It was pretty warm in the bright sunshine, so I treated myself to a soft drink, and my second ice cream of the day. Well, I am on my holiday!

The ferry crossing is very pleasant. It is part Hurtigruten coastal scenic route, a popular ferry that is a supply route for the coastal communities. Today it is used by tourists to travel the length of the coastline.

As the ferry docks, the ferry operative stops the rest of the traffic, and waves us off first. Good man! Mark is now leading. He has set his satnav to winding route which takes us on the 771, 770 and 768 to Abelvaer.  My satnav has thrown in the towel, and decided against trying to direct me to tonights destination. After several attempts to get me to carry out a U-turn, it has said " Bollocks then. You're on your own!"

These roads are a little more narrow and twisty. Some of the tunnels are especially tight for some of the coaches and trucks we encounter.

At Abelvaer, we catch our second ferry of the day. We ride right to the front of the queues again, much to the disgust of two German lady motorcyclists patiently waiting in the first queue. We see the ferry docking just as we arrive.

A very cute young lady sells us our tickets, and tells us that the next ferry is the one we need. I turns out that it is the same ferry. Just that it makes a short hop to Fosnesvagen and back first. Within 15 minutes the ferry is back, and we are waved aboard. We are directed up a ramp at the side of the ferry. The two German ladies follow us. I say hello as we all park up, but they ignore us all. It is only a short ferry crossing, so we just chill out next to the bikes.

We are waved off first on the other side, But a local truck driver is having none of it. It is no problem though, as we all get past him a few minutes later. This section of road crosses lots of small rivers and inlets. There seems to be a bridge every few minutes.

Our progress is halted briefly when we discover a heard of sheep, sleeping in the road. They are not too impressed at having to move. Reluctantly they move on with their little bells clanking away on the blue ribbons around their necks.

We arrive in Namsos, which is where we are planning to stop for the evening. Mark spots a Co-Op as we make our way through the town, and he and I stop and buy some supplies. It is here that I have the first of a trio of mishaps that happen during my trip.

Mark and I get back on our bikes after getting our shopping. We start up and bikes and make our way out of the carpark. Well, Mark does. I engage first gear, turn the bars to the left, let out the clutch, somehow loose my footing, and proceed to throw my bike on the floor! I quickly realise what is happening, and my mind tells me I can save it. Briefly my body is playing along. Unable to keep the bike upright, I emit defeat and gently lay the bike down. Balls!

I look round to see where Mark is, but he is off down the road. I attempt to lift my bike up again. Two teenage yoofs are watching the whole thing, and shout what I can only assume is encouragement! I'll show 'em.

In one smooth movement, and with a bit of effort, I get the bike upright. Luckily it starts first time. I make my way out of the carpark, and past the yoofs. "Thanks for your help!"

I wheelie my bike out of the carpark, and up the street, a tradition of mine following a minor crash. Mark has pulled over and is waiting for me. I explain what has happened, and we both have a laugh at my misfortune.

The campsite, Namsos Camping, is five minutes up the road. We book in, settling for a small hytte as has become the norm. The hytte we are given is huge compared to what we have been used to. It looks fairly new too.

Once I have unloaded my things I take a proper look at the damage to my bike. The bottom corner of the left pannier is dented and scratched, and there are minor scratches to my left handguard. Adventure scars! I can live with them. They tell a story.

I take a walk around the campsite to explore. There is a large group of Honda Goldwings are staying further along the site. One of them has a crazy little caravan. It sleeps two people at a squeeze!

There is a small assortment of animals, in a sort of petting zoo. The goats are making lots of noise whenever anyone gets close to their pen. They seem to want all the attention.

Tomorrow we head for the Atlantic road.

Here is part 12 of my vlog:

Crasher goes North: We're in for a wild ride.

Map of Day 13

Monday 27th July 2015

I had a restless nights sleep. The rain and wind starts around 1am. But, it is light enough to feel like the middle of the afternoon. It feels like my tent is going to take of at times. I am glad I pegged it down well. I put my earplugs in so I can't hear the wind and drift back off to sleep.

Just before 5, I wake up again. This time it is my bladder alarm clock going off. It is still raining and very windy. I can hear tents being packed away outside. These are some of the campers catching the early ferry. I wanted to catch the early ferry. But, some of the others didn't think they would be able to get up early enough so we booked on the 10:30 sailing.

I decided to get up around 8. Finn has already packed his tent away, and is heading for the warm and dry of the campsite kitchen. I have fun trying to pack away my tent in the strong wind. Mark is also packing, and Stuart and Alison are up and about too.  Once we have packed up, we join the queue for the ferry down on the dock.

Most of the campers from the site are already there. As we are on bikes, we go straight to the front and start our own line. Mr Kendal Mint Cake is in the next lane. He comes over for a chat. He and the lovely Mrs Kendal Mint Cake are heading inland towards Sweden. They are hoping to find out more about her Grandfathers family in the village where they are from. Lets hope they discover he was a patient man!

The ferry appears into view. It is bobbing around like a rubber duck in a toddlers bathtub. It looks like it might be an interesting crossing. We are waved on first, and directed to strap the bikes down near the side of the ferry. A man in high-viz walks over towards us. " Four straps per bike! Strap down tight! Big Waves!" he shouts, so that we can all hear him. Oh dear!

We have been used to fjords like mill ponds. Even my ferry crossing over was super smooth. Now we were heading into a scene from " Deadliest Catch". With the bikes strapped down well enough to survive a nuclear blast, Finn, Mark and I stake a territorial claim at table in the passenger lounge. We save Stuart and Alison a couple of spaces. It is a three and a half hour crossing. I am glad I took a nausea tablet earlier.

The ferry leaves bang on time. The passenger lounge is filling up fast. Lots of backpackers with huge packs, are annoying the other passengers as they walk through the rows looking for seats. The sea seems calm, until we leave the shelter of the harbor breakwater.

All hell breaks loose. A giant sea-monster has grabbed the ferry, and is trying to shake the passengers out! I am feeling around my headrest for the drop down restraining device, as it feels like a theme park ride. Members of the crew are handing out sick bags. Even the locals are taking some.

I decide it would be a good idea to take a few photos of us leaving the island. I make my way outside. This is harder than you would imagine. It is difficult to stand, let alone walk. I edge my way towards the door holding on to the hard rail to steady myself. The problems start when someone is coming the other way. One of us has to let go, and give way! A group of elderly ladies are finding the whole situation hilarious.

I make it outside into the bracing fresh air. I find Stuart and Alison sat on a bench in a sheltered spot. They are not enjoying the crossing so far, and are going to stay outside for a while.

The Lofoten Island mountains look menacing, shrouded in the low lying mist. The sky overhead is looking angry, and I watch some of the larger waves crash into the shore.

The wind is strong out on the rear deck. Some of the passengers are hanging onto the safety rail with white knuckles. The flagpole is bending with the force of the wind.

I stay out on the deck for about twenty minutes. I am feeling a little cold, so I head back inside. I notice the cafeteria is open. As, I haven't had any breakfast yet I buy a coffee. The nice lady serving, tells me that I can help myself to a free refill, which is included in the price. This could come in handy, as I now have the challenge of getting back to my seat without spilling it.

I get to where the old ladies are sitting without incident. They are now in floods of tears. A guy in front of me is wearing his tray of cooked breakfast and coffee. A member of staff comes over to clean up. I get back to my seat. Mark and Finn, jokingly ask where their coffees are.

After around an hour and a half the sea seems to calm down. Either that or I am getting used to the ferry moving. I can now walk in a straight line again. I stop off at the toilet on my way out to the deck. The guy from earlier is still trying to wash tomato ketchup out of his shirt.

The sea is definitely much calmer now. We are passing a group of islands which are out in the middle of the West Fjord. Some of them are inhabited.

At our table, Finn comes back from the cafeteria with a coffee and a piece of Diam cake. This is a Scandinavian phenomenon. Mark disappears and returns with a slice of his own a few minutes later. Damn it! I want a piece now. I join the cafeteria queue and buy a cheese salad roll, a piece of Diam cake, and top up my coffee cup. I have had Diam cake before back at home. But, it tastes even better right here and now.

The ferry is now tracking the coast of the mainland. The mountains appear to change colour as the sun hits them through breaks in the cloud. The taller ones have snow covered tops. We would be riding the mountain roads over the next few days. I was looking forward to seeing the views on the higher passes.

The captain comes over the tannoy to announce the fact that we will be docking on time. With twenty minutes to go, the car deck opens and we make our way down. The bikes are still standing, and don't appear to have moved an inch.

We say our goodbye's to Finn. He is going to take a different route to us from here. The FV17 is a scenic coastal route involving lots of ferry crossings to link up the sections of road. I had read about the FV17 during my research for the trip. The common consensus is that it takes 3-5 days to comfortably complete the route, due to the attractions along the way and waiting for ferries. The rest of us are taking the more direct E6, so that we don't run out of time later in the trip.

It is raining as the bow doors open. We are ready to get going, but a Volvo towing a large caravan is blocking us in. It is owned by the nice Finnish family who were handing out the grilled fish at the campsite. They delicately move out of the way, and we get going.

Mark and I pull over just before we leave the port, to wait for Stuart and Alison and to put on our waterproofs. The weather reports say that rain may keep us company over the next couple of days.

After topping up the bikes with fuel we head out of Bodo. It has an excellent road system with a central lane used in either direction dependant on demand. Today the flow is in our favour and we make good time.

It is the usual case of the road following the shore around the fjord. In this case a very large one. Mark is setting a good pace and we settle into a nice rhythm.

As we get to Rognan, the road narrows through the town centre. Rognan seemed to be a centre for wintersports, with lots of radical looking dudes walking about in dreadlocks. There were a lot of older cars fitted with large "moose lights" too. I hadn't spotted many of these since leaving Sweden.

The road continued south and became even narrower. The large trucks and tourist coaches were obviously used to this though, as they didn't slow down at all when they passed with inches to spare.

The rain returned an hour later. The sky was bruising, and the rain became more persistent. There were signs it had been raining for some time, as the road ran next to a very swollen river as we entered the Saltdallen National park.

There was a stunning looking tourist information centre here. The road also took an an Alpine feel, twisting and turning over blind crests through the pine forest.

We caught up with the Finnish family again who slowed down and waved us all passed, enthusiastically beeping the horn and waving as they did so.

The E6 then crossed the vast open plains of Dunderlandsdallen. The wind was cold and strong. It became a challenge on some of the more open corners. Midway across the plain, we crossed back over the Polar Circle. There is a visiters centre there but I could tell that Mark was in no mood for stopping to look at tourist tat.

We were heading to a campsite just the other side of Mo I Rana. By the time we arrived, I was cold, tired, and soaked to the skin. Today I had discovered that my waterproofs were only waterproof for about an hour in constant rain!

I headed into the reception building looking like a drowned rat. Trying not to drip too much on the nice clean floor, I was greeted by a Norwegian angel. Looking like Velma Dinkley from the Scooby Doo cartoons, she melted my frozen heart.

She had a choice of cabins available, and we elected for 2 basic cabins at 520NOK each. This was about the average we paid during our trip. The cabins were warm, dry, and just the job for a bunch of weary travelers.

The campsite had a tumble drier, so I opted to make full use of it. This meant going to see Velma for some tokens. She wanted to hear about my trip, so we chatted for a while.  She liked meeting people from different places, which is why she worked on the reception during the summer holiday break from University. Her English was excellent. I am always embarrassed at my lack of being able to speak foreign languages. 

I loaded up the drier with all of my clothes. I even threw in my motorcycle gloves. Mark and I then got some food going, and settled in. It felt like it had been a long day today.

Here is part 11 of my vlog: