Tuesday 28th July 2015
After the wet and dismal weather we had yesterday, it was great to be waking up to a warm, sunny day. We were all a bit slower to get going this morning. I think it was partially due to yesterday being quite tiring. And, while I can't speak for the others, I especially was finally feeling calm and relaxed. Work and home life stresses were a million miles away. The scenery was stunning, and the people we had met were nothing but friendly.
After the wet and dismal weather we had yesterday, it was great to be waking up to a warm, sunny day. We were all a bit slower to get going this morning. I think it was partially due to yesterday being quite tiring. And, while I can't speak for the others, I especially was finally feeling calm and relaxed. Work and home life stresses were a million miles away. The scenery was stunning, and the people we had met were nothing but friendly.
Todays trip along the E6 started out with a series of long radius turn and tunnels, as it followed the shore along the Rana Fjord. It was so nice to feel the sun on my face again. The day was off to a great start.
It wasn't long before something came along to spoil things though. Tourist coaches. German tourist coaches. We were now riding along one of the busier, prettier, sections of the E6. Tourist coaches were everywhere. Just when you got past one and started to make progress, another would come into view. To be fair to them, they were keeping up a good pace. But, the nature of the road meant that we were swarming all over the back of them in no time.
But, Stuart who was leading the way this morning had a plan. We headed away from the main E6 onto a couple of the smaller "snow roads". These roads are the old network of roads which weave their way over the mountains whereas the E6 takes a more direct path. These roads are still maintained very well, due to the fact that they are used as diversion routes if the E6 becomes blocked for any reason. They are known as "snow roads", as there are closed off by barriers during the heavy snow in winter.
But, it is July. It is warm and sunny, and these roads are deserted. We were all nipping along at a brisk pace. Endless series of hairpin bends and corkscrew turns, up and down the mountains. Some of the views from the top were spectacular.
But, all too soon the snow roads led us back to the E6. Although this section was now a twisty, slightly narrower, and in some places freshly tarmacked riders paradise.
The mountains were becoming more imposing again on either side of the road. I also spotted this truck dealer with a full sized concrete sculpture of a cab painted to look like the surrounding view.
We were having a great ride, until we spotted a familiar coach. It was the same one we were stuck behind an hour ago! While we had been playing the hare over the mountain roads, the coach tortoise had crept into the lead.
There was a small footpath down to the falls. I climbed down to the waters edge to take some photos. Standing so close gave a real impression of the power in those falls. The roar of the water was deafening.
As we walked back to our bikes, a Norwegian couple on an interesting BMW K1600 rolled in. They had a funky little trailer in tow. There were lots of bikes towing similar trailers all over Scandinavia.
With the tourist coaches busy at the waterfalls, we decided to get ahead of them. We had the option to stay on the E6 or take an alternative route I had spotted last night while reviewing my maps. It involved taking some smaller roads out towards, and then following the coast. The first part of this route was the 76. We would then join the southern section of the FV17.
Route 76 was a magical mix of different types of riding and scenery. It had everything. Open, flowing alpine roads, tunnels, little farming villages, mountain hairpin switchbacks through pine forest, fast flowing rivers, and deep clear fjords. If a mermaid had popped up to the surface of one of these deep shimmering pools I would not of been surprised.
However, it wasn't a mermaid I happened to spot. Instead it was a pair of angels. Young, tall, attractive, gun toting, Police uniform wearing angels. I had feelings of naughtiness coursing through my immature mind.
Cresting a short rise, a Police van was parked up at the side of the road. A few hundred metres further on, the two Norwegian lovelies were knelt at the roadside carrying out some kind of forensic examination. Their effect on me was almost instantaneous. As I ran extremely wide on the next bend, and nearly created some more work for them to do!
Another 30 or so kilometres circumnavigating a few more stunning fjords, and it was time to stop for lunch. Near Velfjord we found a service station.
I had a great quarter-pounder, an ice cream and of course a coffee. Mark decided he fancied the chicken nuggets. Well, he assumed they would be chicken. But, this being Norway, they turned out to be fish! He was not impressed. To ease the pain, Mark walked to the supermarket next door, and bought some beer to drown his sorrows latter that evening.
Shortly after lunch, I took the lead as we headed on to the FV17. After researching this during the trip planning stage it is supposed to be one of the most beautiful roads in this area of Norway. This is the route Finn had taken yesterday. I had dismissed riding the whole FV17 route due to the time it takes. But, somehow Finn had managed the whole route in just under 2 days! He had also managed to avoid the rain the rest of us had experienced, posting photos of himself with a large ice cream cone just to rub it in.
The southern part of the FV17 that we rode was nice, but I wouldn't call it stunning. It was no better than the roads we had ridden this morning. We followed the road across open farm pastures and then along the coast to a ferry crossing at Vennesund. There are a couple of cars waiting, but we ride straight to the front.
A few minutes later the ticket collector walks over for a chat. He says that the ferry is just arriving, and they will get us on first. We are waved on, park the bikes, and make our way up on deck for the twenty minute crossing.
The ferry crossing is very pleasant. It is part Hurtigruten coastal scenic route, a popular ferry that is a supply route for the coastal communities. Today it is used by tourists to travel the length of the coastline.
As the ferry docks, the ferry operative stops the rest of the traffic, and waves us off first. Good man! Mark is now leading. He has set his satnav to winding route which takes us on the 771, 770 and 768 to Abelvaer. My satnav has thrown in the towel, and decided against trying to direct me to tonights destination. After several attempts to get me to carry out a U-turn, it has said " Bollocks then. You're on your own!"
These roads are a little more narrow and twisty. Some of the tunnels are especially tight for some of the coaches and trucks we encounter.
A very cute young lady sells us our tickets, and tells us that the next ferry is the one we need. I turns out that it is the same ferry. Just that it makes a short hop to Fosnesvagen and back first. Within 15 minutes the ferry is back, and we are waved aboard. We are directed up a ramp at the side of the ferry. The two German ladies follow us. I say hello as we all park up, but they ignore us all. It is only a short ferry crossing, so we just chill out next to the bikes.
We are waved off first on the other side, But a local truck driver is having none of it. It is no problem though, as we all get past him a few minutes later. This section of road crosses lots of small rivers and inlets. There seems to be a bridge every few minutes.
Our progress is halted briefly when we discover a heard of sheep, sleeping in the road. They are not too impressed at having to move. Reluctantly they move on with their little bells clanking away on the blue ribbons around their necks.
We arrive in Namsos, which is where we are planning to stop for the evening. Mark spots a Co-Op as we make our way through the town, and he and I stop and buy some supplies. It is here that I have the first of a trio of mishaps that happen during my trip.
Mark and I get back on our bikes after getting our shopping. We start up and bikes and make our way out of the carpark. Well, Mark does. I engage first gear, turn the bars to the left, let out the clutch, somehow loose my footing, and proceed to throw my bike on the floor! I quickly realise what is happening, and my mind tells me I can save it. Briefly my body is playing along. Unable to keep the bike upright, I emit defeat and gently lay the bike down. Balls!
I look round to see where Mark is, but he is off down the road. I attempt to lift my bike up again. Two teenage yoofs are watching the whole thing, and shout what I can only assume is encouragement! I'll show 'em.
In one smooth movement, and with a bit of effort, I get the bike upright. Luckily it starts first time. I make my way out of the carpark, and past the yoofs. "Thanks for your help!"
I wheelie my bike out of the carpark, and up the street, a tradition of mine following a minor crash. Mark has pulled over and is waiting for me. I explain what has happened, and we both have a laugh at my misfortune.
The campsite, Namsos Camping, is five minutes up the road. We book in, settling for a small hytte as has become the norm. The hytte we are given is huge compared to what we have been used to. It looks fairly new too.
Once I have unloaded my things I take a proper look at the damage to my bike. The bottom corner of the left pannier is dented and scratched, and there are minor scratches to my left handguard. Adventure scars! I can live with them. They tell a story.
I take a walk around the campsite to explore. There is a large group of Honda Goldwings are staying further along the site. One of them has a crazy little caravan. It sleeps two people at a squeeze!There is a small assortment of animals, in a sort of petting zoo. The goats are making lots of noise whenever anyone gets close to their pen. They seem to want all the attention.
Here is part 12 of my vlog:
No comments:
Post a Comment