Monday 12th June 142 miles
838 Total
I drifted in and out of sleep during the night as it was quite warm in our little dorm room. This years snoring championships had also begun in earnest. Stu was the clear leader, but he had some stiff competition in newcomer Johhny.
Robbie provided some early morning entertainment. He attempted to climb down from his top bunk forwards, rather than the traditional tried and tested reverse ladder technique. He managed the first two rungs of the ladder with no problem. But, as he reached out a foot for the third, he found nothing but air beneath his twinkle toes.
His now large step forward, propelled him at high velocity across the tiny room toward the bunks of Jim and Colin on the other side. Luckily, Robbie had his hands out in front of his face to prevent his nose being the first point of contact. Thinking no one had seen his exploits, Robbie casually made his way out to the bathroom. How I managed to not make any noise while this happened I will never no. I was now crying with laughter.
I decided to get up rather that lie in bed. It was early so the shower was free. I could hear the sea gently lapping the shore and gulls squawking just outside the window. It was a complete contrast to the traffic noise I get at home. Some of the others were stirring as I got back to the dorm room. I made my way to the communal dining room and kitchen where Stu, Alison and two Polish lady hikers were making breakfast.
It seems Stu had also witnessed Robbie's bedroom gymnastics, and it quickly became the topic of conversation around the table. You would of thought he would be used to ladders being a fireman!
With breakfast consumed we discussed our plans for today. Basically we would ride down through the islands to Eriskay, and then make our way back up to the hostel at the top on Berneray.
Robbie elected me to lead so I set off back in the direction of Lochmaddy. It was going to be a more relaxed day today. There was only one main route running the length of the islands with a few side roads to various bays and villages. The A865 main road is a single track road with passing places. But, there are a few shorter sections of two lane road in some of the larger villages. All of the islands are joined with causeways. I assume it used to be a series of ferry rides before the road was built. I was quite surprised at the amount of new build projects that were going on. it seems the island population must be increasing the demand for housing, as everywhere else in the UK.
It was a little cooler today. But, it was just about right for motorcycling. The scenery on the way to Lochmaddy looked stunning in the morning light. There was very little traffic, and very few people for that matter.
Once south of Lochmaddy the scenery changed. North Uist is much more rugged than Berneray. It was blissfully bleak as we rode across the open rocky moorland. It was also a little gusty at times as there was nothing to disrupt wind.
Once past the open moorland and heading for the second island of Benbecula, I came up behind a slow moving car. I recognized the driver by her hat. It was the Asian lady from the ferry. She was driving her rental car straight down the middle of the road, ignoring the fact that there was a gang of angry clansmen trying to get passed.
After a few passing places (with signs clearly saying to let faster traffic past), and with opposing traffic gesturing for her to check her mirrors, I decided a more aggressive overtake was needed to get her attention. After both I and Finn behind me passed her car at close quarters, she quickly got the notion to let us all passed. She then pulled back out in front of some local drivers who assumed they would be allowed to pass too!
The next island we arrived at was South Uist. The moorland was similar to North Uist but without the rocks. It was just open moorland with the odd patch of heather. There were a few hills in the distance, on top of which sat some large military radar installations.
The southern part of South Uist was a mix of sandy coves and rocky islands. We encountered a few cyclists along this part of the road. The route up through the islands is part of the National Cycle Route, and is popular with cycle tourists. It looked like hard work though.
South Uist was also the home of some very impressive churches. Some of which were very striking and modern looking. Religion is obviously a big part of island life.
As we approached the final island of Eriskay, the scenery changed once more. Eriskay is like a huge rocky mountain with tiny cottages clinging to any flat land available. It looked like a dormant volcano as we rode across the causeway towards it.
The road ended at the ferry port of Coilleag. I parked up outside the terminal building. There were a couple of campervans in the car park waiting for the next ferry which was due in just under an hour.
The good thing about these terminal buildings is that they have toilets available 24hours a day. I emptied my bladder and picked up a few tourist leaflets from the display.
I felt like a coffee. Colin heard my suggestion from yards away and was also keen for a caffeine fix. I had noticed a coffee shop sign back in the village, so we would stop there on our way back north.
Stu mentioned that his tyres felt a little soft, and asked for my advise on the correct pressures. Sure enough they were lower than recommended, so he whipped out his little compressor and added a few PSI. It was then we noticed that a gull had expressed his opinion of the K1600 exhausts.
This guano guerilla of the sky had shot his load with pin point accuracy directly into the top exhaust port of Stu's bike. Top bombing, Sir!
With tyres inflated and guano removed it was back to the village shop/ post office for a brew. This Eriskay emporium sold everything and anything. If they didn't have it you probably didn't need it. But, they did sell coffee......and cake!
We sat outside enjoying our drinks when another couple on a Triumph Tiger800XC called in to the shop. They were stocking up with supplies before catching the ferry over to Barra.
We were also joined by our friend in the red Fiat 500. After pulling into the small carpark outside the shop, she completed a twelve point turn with great protesting from the clutch, and them disappeared down the road adjacent to the shop. A few minutes later she was back again, and abandoned her car in the carpark before entering the shop. It turned out she was looking for the ladies room. And, after a bit of direction from Alison and the store staff she found the way. That was our chance to leave. So, we mounted up and headed north.
Robbie had mentioned a sea loch where it may be possible to spot sea eagles. So, seeing as we would be passing that way we decided to take a look. The B890 to Loch Sgioport was a winding narrow road. A elderly couple walking their pair of Border Collies were quiet happy for them to walk around in the road in front of our approaching bikes. Luckily, no harm was done.
We also encountered a group of ponies as we neared the coast. There were large piles of pony poo all along the centre of the road, so it was no surprise to see them. I just don't know how creatures so small can produce so much manure.
The road appeared to end at a small gravel layby where there were a couple of cars parked up. The track did continue as rough gravel, so we parked the bikes and would walk down to the bay. We caused quite a stir amongst the other people there, as a terrorizing biker gang descended on this twitchers paradise.
It was good to have a bit of time of the bike. It was a pleasant walk down to the bay. There was a steep roadway down to an old wooden dock. A fisherman had driven his campervan down there. It looked like he might have a bit of fun getting back up to the road again. But, he must of done it before as he looked like he was a regular visitor to this spot.
We didn't see any sea birds or eagles. Just a common seal bobbing around in the water. The bay was beautiful though. The water was dead calm. The whole place was very tranquil.
After half an hour or so exploring the bay we headed back to the main road. As we headed back to North Uist we called in at the large CoOp supermarket for some supplies. As we stood around talking a large nail was spotted in Colin's rear tyre. The tyre was holding air, but it was something that would need addressing. We had various puncture repair kits throughout out group, so we would have a go at repairing the tyre when we got back to the hostel.
It was also noted that while Jim had been shopping, somebody had stolen the tread from his rear tyre! There is always that one guy on our trips that thinks they have enough tyre left to last the trip. Last year it was Mark. The year before it was Stu. This year it was Jim.
Here he was on the Outer Hebrides, miles away from the nearest motorcycle shop back on the mainland, with a bald tyre and a fully laden bike. He was hoping there would be able to find a tyre available somewhere in Stornaway tomorrow. He didn't have a plan B.
He asked Darren back at home to get on Google and try and find out if there were any tyre shops on Harris. He had his fingers, toes and everything else crossed!
With a plan to sort out at least one tyre back at the hostel we got on our way. We took the A892 loop out to the coast rather than go back the way we had come. This took us past the airport and a large military base. There was quite a lot of industry next to the airport for the size of the island. But, I suppose if there are good connecting flights to the mainland, it would be as good a place as any.
My fuel light came on shortly after we got back to the main A865. I knew that if the other guys were not panicking about fuel, then I should be fine too. But, we still had twenty or so miles back to the hostel plus how ever many tomorrow morning until we found fuel on Lewis.
As we got to a shop with petrol pumps outside, I decided not to risk it and stop for some fuel. The other all carried on. I added a tenners worth to tide me over. I would then fill up tomorrow with the others. Right now to play catch up!
Robbie had mentioned that he might call in at the RSPB reserve on the way back ( he denied this when I catch up with him later). I assumed that would be where the clan was heading. The reserve was down a narrow lane about three miles from the main road. I got to the carpark but there was no sign of them. They must of gone straight back to the hostel instead. Oh well.
Spying an ice cream sign in front of the information centre, I parked my shiny red steed and moseyed inside. I bought a large 99, and sat on a shady bench outside. Two yummy-mummies impressed by my bike started asking about my trip. One of them used have a Honda CBR600 but sold it after having her kids.
Having given up on catching up with the others I rode at my own pace back towards the hostel. The road round the north coast was a great ride. Huge white sandy beaches with the odd sheep grazing away on the shoreline vegetation. There were also a couple of new houses being built with stunning views right outside the front door.
The road itself was awesome fun. A series of yumps along a straight section had me getting a bit excited. Well, at least I was saving on front tyre wear, right? I had to calm things down though as just around the next corner hundreds of sheep were being herded along the road. The sheep dog was loving his job running around like a nutter keeping everything in order.
I spotted the others in a coffee shop a mile or so from the hostel. They had called in to see what time it opened as a bistro in the evenings. Unfortunately, it was only open at lunchtimes and weekends. So, it was back to the hostel to fend for ourselves.
Back at the hostel the first item of business was Colin's puncture. Johhny had some super dooper repair kit that everyone raved about on the interweb. So it was given a go. Robbie pulled out the nail in the tyre. This turned out to be a three inch piece of fencing wire. Johhny then inserted one of his plugs. It needed three more plugs to seal the hole. But, the instructions said it can take several to seal a larger hole! It did work though, and Colin was able to finish the week and get home without further issues.
Jim had also been busy. Darren had sent him a list of possible tyre shops by text. It was now too late to phone them. But, he would try first thing in the morning. Jim was now starting to walk funny due to the amount of body parts he had crossed.
After some food, I decided to take a walk along the beach. Robbie came with me. The water was so clear, and the beach so shallow you could see the bottom for about 30 metres.
But, Robbie and I were under surveillance by one of the locals. A seal was tracking us as we walked along the shore. Every now and then he would pop his head up for a look before swimming on. As the water was so clear we could see him swimming along the bottom looking for shellfish.
The beach ended with a series of steep dunes. So, we climbed up to the top and walked back along the bank. It was only then that we spotted the ten or so campervans and motorhomes that were parked up between the dunes. They were not visible from the beach. Each one had it's own private pitch provided by nature. It would be a great place to bring my glampervan.
Back at the hostel it was time for whisky tasting and discussion of the days events. I had enjoyed todays brief exploration of the islands. But, I was even more excited about tomorrow as I had seen some stunning images of Harris and Lewis online.
Here is my vlog of todays little trip.
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