Clan ADV 2018: What's the story in.......Tobermory

We were heading for Tobermory. After back tracking a little, we turned off on to the B8035 scenic coast road.

Mark now leading on his mighty 250, with Johnny and I in hot pursuit. The others were following along picking their way through the ferry traffic. The coastal road was indeed very scenic. It ran right along the far shore of Loch Scridian, with just a strip of grass and a few sea irises between the road and the sea. The air was fresh and salty in my lungs.

The road was bumpy and very narrow. Mark had daylight under his wheels in a few places even though we were only travelling at 30-40mph. A few camper vans and motorhomes had braved the tiny road. Luckily, we met them where there were convenient passing places and were able to squeeze past.

After a few miles where the road turned inland, we were soon back out onto the coast at Balnahard. This was the mouth of Loch na Keal. The road followed the shore around the Loch for the next seven miles. Mark, Johnny, and I pulled over at the foot of some impressive cliffs for the others to catch up. There were a couple of eagles soaring overhead. It appeared there was a nesting site up in the cliffs somewhere.

Robbie spotted the eagles and went into full David Attenborough mode. He was a little bit obsessed with seeing a Sea Eagle. But, as yet they had proved elusive. While we were having a leg stretch a couple in a campervan pulled up and started telling Robbie about the nest further along the loch. We set off hoping to spot the place they had described.

The road continued on hugging a narrow ledge at the foot of the huge cliff faces with just a low wall to keep you from plunging into the sea. Then a few hundred metres later the scenery was flat and green. Little streams flowing from the mountains were crossed by little hump back bridges which became a series of jumps for me and the big Duke.

As we reached the spot where the Sea Eagle were supposed to be we could spot nothing but a couple of gulls. Robbie and most of the other stopped for a look anyway. Mark, Johnny and I continued on round the corner. The eagles were soaring away in the sky, catching the thermals from the surrounding hills. I pulled out my camera. But, while I was changing over to my long lens the camera shy eagles returned to their nest. Of course, because I failed to get the proof Robbie didn’t believe we had seen his beloved Sea Eagles at all.

The road continued along the north west coast of the isle. Here the scenery was more cultivated. Crops and animals filled the fields with gorgeous views out over the sea. The road was very narrow and twisty on places. Stu and Alison were struggling a little on such a big bike, and waved the rest of us passed. They would only be a few minutes behind us whenever we stopped, so it was not worth them being pressured to keep up. But, they were not the only ones struggling with the road. Some interesting driving from tourists in rental cars entertained us at times. At one point the road became blocked by indecisive drivers. Robbie offered them some vocal encouragement, and eventually the traffic was moving again.

Needing to reduce his blood pressure a little after this latest altercation, he led us to Calgary Bay. White sandy beaches and turquoise water greeted us as we rolled into the picnic area. It was so peaceful and calm. Another biker was setting up his tent for a nights wild camping.  A VW T5 camper was also parked up enjoying the views. It was clearly a popular spot with a few pitches marked out by the local council. As long as you took your rubbish home and left the place tidy, camping was encouraged.

It was getting close to tea and cake o'clock. Colin and I were both itching for a fix. 

Tobermory was just over ten miles from here so we would have to survive another twenty minutes of cold turkey until we got there.

A few hundred metres from Calgary we encountered a disabled cyclist on a hand bike. He was flying along reaching 30-35mph at some points. I would of struggled on my own road racing bike on the hilly terrain, yet alone using only my arms. He got some big respect from me. 

Halfway to Tobermory we entered the tiny village of Dervaig. I had heard that there was a series of hairpin bends on the outskirts of the village much renowned by local bikers. And, sure enough a mile out of the village the Scottish Stelvio presented itself. My satnav showed it went on for a few miles as a series of squiggly lines decorated the screen like someone had tested a ballpoint pen all across it. Up and down the glen we went. Hairpin after hairpin. The tarmac was good in places and dire in others. But, on the whole it was great fun.

Then just as we were all enjoying ourselves the town signs for Tobermory appeared.

We managed to find a nice big roadside parking spot big enough for all our bikes outside the bright pink Tobermory Hotel. Tobermory is famous for its brightly coloured buildings along the harbor front. After taking a few photos, it was time to find the caffeine. Robbie, Colin, Mark and I went hunting while the others did their own thing.

The Tobermory Bakery looked like the place. We relaxed at a table in the small, busy shop overlooking the display of ruinous cakes and pastries. A large millionaires shortbread for me please! The scent of coffee beans being ground in the sugary air got my nostrils twitching. I was freaking out like a street junky. I needed my fix……now!

As that first sip of dark elixir was enjoyed, Colin and I let out a synchronized sigh. An air of Arabica induced calmness filled the room. I was in complete caffeine utopia for the next twenty minutes or so. Robbie ordered a hot chocolate with marshmallow and cream topping. A spoon was required as the first few attempts to drink it resulted in a most of it ending up on his face.

With bellies full it was back to the bikes collecting the others as we did so. We headed back to Fishnish to catch the return ferry to the mainland. Here we would say goodbye to Finn. He was continuing on with his own adventure and heading to the Isle of Arran for a couple of nights, before returning home to Denmark.

The ferry trip back over to Lochaline was as efficient as it had been this morning. The midges were out in force though, so I kept my helmet on for the twenty minute crossing. It was spitting with rain as we landed back on the mainland. A few heavier showers made their appearance on the way back to Strontian. But, they were brief and left on the breeze as quickly as they arrived.

Robbie had suggested that we tried the pub in the village for our meal this evening after a few discussions on the ferry. Unfortunately they were fully booked. So, we headed back to the hostel for some more of the excellent home cooked food. It was another great evening after dinner in the communal kitchen. It was the end of a great day, and unfortunately our last of the trip. Tomorrow we head home after another epic week in the west of Scotland.

Here is the vlog from todays adventures.